Method for waving hair



Nov. 19,1935. 'T. H.IZIINN' 2,021,642

METHOD FOR WAVING HAIR Filed March 23, 1954 flelma 17 Z 7171 d-Woww Patented Nov. 19, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD FOR WAVING HAIR Thelma H. Zinn, Columbus, Ohio Application March 23, 1934, Serial No. 717,049

4 Claims. (01. 132-33) This invention relates to an improved method for the waving of hair, and has particular reference tothe art of dressing hair to eifect the formation of that type of wave identified by 5 those skilled in the art as the Croquignole wave.

The general object of the invention is to provide-a novel method to curl hair in such a manner as to produce a more natural appearing and lasting Croquignole Wave than hitherto customarily obtained with accepted prior methods and devices and, moreover, to secure such improved results with hair dressers of ordinary training and not necessarily those of long experience or expert rating. It is a further object of the invention to provide a novel method and means by which substantially uniform tension is applied to all of the individual strands or filaments of a band of hair during the operation of spirally winding the hair band on a rotatable clamp supported curling rod from the outer end of the-hair band toward the scalp.

In the commonly used method of Croquignole waving, a band of hair composed of combed fiat parallel strands or filaments is engaged immediately adjacent to the scalp by a protector clamp whereby a pull on the band of hair away from the scalp distributes the tension uniformly between all of the filaments disposed between the clamp and the scalp. After the attachment of the protecting clamp, the outer ends of the hair band are attached to the curling rod which is supported for rotation in one direction about its longitudinal axis by a suitable hand held frame. The entire band of hair by the continuous rotation of the curling rod is then wound in a circular or spiral form on the curling rod by the manual rotation of the latter. Following this wrapping of the band of hair on the curling rod or spindle, a moistened wrapper is applied to the hair and the spindle and the assembly is then placed in a heater which extends about the same so that the hair may be heated for a required period of time to obtain the permanency of the wave.

By the use of this usual method and appa ratus for producing the Croquignole wave, I have observed that it is impossible to obtain uniform tension on the individual hair filaments of the band during the spiral wrapping of the latter about the curling rod or spindle. As now practiced, this operation is continuous from the time the outer end of the hair band is clamped on the rod until the winding has been fully accomplished and the rod disposed adjacent the protecting clamp which is secured to the hair band immediately adjacent to the scalp. In this wrapping, considerable tension is applied to the outer filaments or strands of the hair band but by far the greater proportion of the indi- 5 vidual filaments or strands are not wrapped around the rod with that degree of tension or tautness which I find is absolutely necessary in producing a wave characterized by permanency and a natural pleasing appearance. 10 In accordance with the present invention, therefore, I have provided in connection with my improved method a hair waving device which comprises a frame upon which is removably and rotatably supported for rotation in a single di- 15 rection a curling rod or spindle. Connected with the frame is a hair clamping device which is formed so that it -may be readily opened or closed, and when closed is adapted to engage the hair band immediately ahead of the curling rod 0 or spindle. By the construction of this device, an unusual method of operation is afforded to obtain the necessary stretch or tension on the hair filaments during wrapping. This is secured by first opening the clamp and allowing 2 the hair band topass freely therethrough until several turns of the same have been wrapped around the rod. The clamp is then closed to grip the hair filaments to prevent their passage through the frame, and the curling rod is par- 30 tially rotated so that the filaments comprising the band of hair and located between the clamp and the curling rod will all be placed under a uniform degree of tension and tightly and firmly Wrapped around the curling rod. The clamp is 35 then opened and the above cycle of operation is successively repeated during the wrapping of the band of hair until the curling rod and its supporting frame reach a position contiguous to the scalp. When this position is reached tests 40 disclose that each filament of hair is tightly Wound on the curling rod with the required degree of tension so that the hair will then be in position to receive the moisture containing envelope and to be subjected to the subsequent heating operation whereby the wave or curl is permanently fixed.

For a further understanding of the invention, reference is to be had to the following descrip- 50 tion and the accompanying drawing, wherein:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the hair waving device used by the present invention in wrapping hair bands around a curling rod;

Fig, 2 is a vertical transverse sectional View 55 taken through the device on the plane indicated by the line II-II of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a horizontal sectional view showing the base of the frame on which the curling rod is supported and the associated clamp mechanism;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view through the curling rod on the plane indicated by the line IVIV of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a longitudinal sectional view taken through one end of the curling rod;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing the attachment of the outer end of the hair band to the curling rod prior to wrapping;

Fig. 7 is a similar view disclosing the curling rod in an applied position on its supporting frame after some wrapping of the hair band has taken place.

Referring more particularly to the drawing, the numeral I designates the curling rod, which is preferably in the form of a metallic spindle of spool-shaped configuration. Pivotally connected with one end of the curling rod are the bifurcated arms 2 or" a pivoted'clasp 3 which is adapted to engage the rod I throughout the greater portion of its length and possesses approximately the same cross sectional configuration as said rod. The outer end of a band of hair is adapted to be inserted between the rod i and the clasp 3 and the latter closed, as shown in Fig. 6, so that the band of hair, indicated at 4, may be wrapped about the rod I and its arm 2 when said rod is rotated about its longitudinal axis in the direction indicated by the arrows in Figs. 1, 2 and 4.

To efiect the removable and rotatable support of the curling rod, use is made of a frame 5 which comprises a bar 6, preferably of molded heat insulating composition. Carried by the ends of the bar 8 and arising vertically therefrom are rigid rod supports I and 8, the former being provided with a forked upper end as indicate-d at 9 while the latter is provided at its upper end with an elongated vertically disposed slot ID. Projecting from one end of the rod I is a trunnion II which terminates at its outer end in finger engaging wings I2 used to facilitate the manual rotation of the rod when it is supported in connection with the frame. The other end of the rod is provided with an internal socket i3, formed with internal ratchet teeth l4, and rotatably mounted within this socket, and suitably retained therein by pins I5, which enter an annular groove I 6, is a bearing member I I, the latter being provided beyond the rod with a flat, bar-like extension I8 which is arranged to be received within the slot I0 of the support 8. A resilient pawl member I9 extends transversely through the bearing member I! and has its free resilient ends projected s'omewhat' beyond the peripheral portion of said bearing member to engage with the internal ratchet teeth I4 of the socket wall I3. By this construction, the rod I when mounted in the frame 5 may be rotated in the direction of the arrows indicated in Figs. 1, 2 and 4 of the drawing, by the provision of the ratchet teeth I4, the pawl member I9 and the non-rotatable mounting of the bearing member E? in the rod support 8, and rotation of said rod in a clockwise direction is precluded.

Cooperative with the forward edge of the frame 5 is a clamp 28. This clamp comprises a metallic core 2|, which is pivoted as at 22 in connection with a horizontally disposed wing 23 formed with the rod support I. Surrounding the core 2I is a tube 24 formed from rubber or other anti-slip material, which tube, when the clamp is closed, is adapted to engage with the walls of a substantially V-shaped groove 25 provided in the forward edge of the frame bar 6. To hold the clamp in its position of closure, the support 8 is provided at its lower end with an outturned horizontal extension upon which is pivotally mounted a locking lever 26. This lever includes a hooked end 2'! which is arranged for engagement with a shoulder 28 formed at the free end of the core 2I, a spring 29 being carried by the bar 5 and disposed for engagement with the other end of the lever 26 to hold the lever in a position locking the clamp against swinging movement. A stop projection 39 is integrally formed with the lever 26 to limit its swinging movement and to permit its hooked end 21 to be normally positioned so that upon the swinging of the clamp inwardly to a position of closure, the shouldered. surface 28 of said clamp will be automatically engaged by the lever 25 to lock the clamp against movement. The bar 6 is also provided with longitudinally spaced vents 25 which extend transversely through the bar from the grooved forward edge of the latter to its rear edge.

In the use of this device and in carrying out my improved method, the first step is to effect formaton of a combed band of hair, as indicated at 3, wherein the individual hairs or filaments of the band extend in parallel order. The curling rod, removed from the frame, is then secured in connection with the outer ends of the hair band by the operation of the clasp 3. The curling rod, with the outer ends of the hair band secured thereto, is then placed in the frame 5; with the rod occupying the position disclosed in Fig. 7. The curling rod is then rotated for a few turns in order to circularly or spirally wrap the ends of the hair band around the curling rod as indicated in Fig. '7. At this point, my method differs drastically from prior practice. As previously set forth, in the ordinary method the spiral wrapping of the hair band about the rod is continued Without purposeful interruption from the time the outer end of the hair band is connected with the curling rod until the wrapping of the hair band about the curling rod is discontinued by the arrival of the curling rod to a position contiguous to the protective clamp on the scalp of the patient.

I have found that in this standard operation, it is virtually impossible to apply evenly and uniformly tension to each of the individual hair strands or filaments of the band. Certain strands or filaments are tautiy held under required tension, While by far the greater percentage of the total number of strands or filaments are not held under tension or lack the required tautness. It has been my experience in this art that unless the hair is tightly curled around a spindle or mandrel prior to heating, it is impossible to obtain permanently set curls' or waves of desired appearance. Therefore, to secure this required tautness in producing the so-called Croquignole wave, after the curling rod has been rotated a few turns, as indicated in Fig. '7, the rotation thereof is discontinued and the opened clamp is then swung to a position of closure so that the hair band will be confined between the rubber tube 24 and the walls of the V-shaped groove 25, the individual strands of hair being thus clamped against movement. When so clamped, the rod I is then rotated or partially rotated to impart the desired stretch to the hair as it is being wrapped around said rod. Since the rod cannot rotate in a reverse or rearward direction, the tautness of the hair wrapped thereon is held. The clamp is then swung to an open position by the release of the lever 26 and rotation is again applied to the rod l to wind further portions of the hair band thereabout, following which the clamp is again closed and the hair stretched as previously described. This operation of wrapping the hair around the curling rod and then stretching it is successively repeated throughout the length of the hair band until substantially the entire length of the band has been tautly and tightly wrapped around the curling rod. When the curling or wrapping operation has been completed, the hair is then subjected when in its wrapped or curled state to the usual heating operations customary in permanent waving to secure the desired permanency of the wave.

I have found that by the use of this method and-associated apparatus, a Croquignole wave is obtained which possesses an exceptionally natural appearance wherein the hair conforms smoothly and properly to head contours and is devoid of projecting or outstanding ends which are the result of improperly wound curls prior to heating. My method and apparatus used in conjunction therewith are of such simplicity that the same may be employed by hair dressers of ordinary or average experience in producing pleasing results and are therefore well suited for employment in commercial hair dressing establishments.

What is claimed is:

1. In a method for applying a Croquignole wave to the hair, the steps which comprise: connecting the outer ends of a fiat band of hair composed of parallel strands or filaments with a curling instrumentality around which the band of hair is to be wrapped spirally from the outer portion thereof to a position contiguous to the scalp, operating said instrumentality intermittently to wind the band of hair about the same without placing the greater proportion of the individual strands or filaments under tension, and in the intervals between the wrapping of the hair band on said instrumentality gripping the band at positions contiguous to the instrumentality, and subjecting that portion of the band in engagement with the instrumentality to forces which place each of the individual hair strands or filaments under stretching tension on said instrumentality.

2 In a method for applying a Croquignole wave to the hair, the steps which comprise: connecting the outer ends of a band of hair composed of flat parallel strands or filaments with a curling instrumentality around which the band of hair is to be wrapped spirally from the outer ends thereof to a position contiguous to the scalp,

sion to effect the winding thereof under tension on said instrumentality.

3. In a method for applying a Croquignole wave to the hair, the steps which comprise: connectingthe outer ends of a band of hair composed of flat parallel strands or filaments with a curling instrumentality around which the band of hair is to be wrapped spirally from the outer ends thereof to a position contiguous to the scalp, intermittently operating said curling instrumentality to efiect the wrapping of the hair band about the same Without placing the individual strands or filaments of the band under appreciable tension, and during the intervals between said successive wrapping operations clamping the hair band at local positions in connection with said instrumentality and subjecting the individual strands or filaments so clamped in connection with said instrumentality to stretching tension to effect the winding thereof under tension on said instrumentality, and retaining said tension on the individual strands of the hair band as long as the band is in engagement with said instrumentality.

4. In a method for applying a Croquignole wave to the hair, the steps which comprise: connecting the outer ends of a band of hair composed of flat parallel strands or filaments with a curling instrumentality around which the band of hair is to be wrapped spirally from the outer ends thereof to a position contiguous to the scalp, intermittently operating said curling instrumentality to efiect the wrapping of the hair band about the same without placing the individual strands or filaments of the band under appreciable tension, and during the intervals between said successive wrapping operations clamping the hair band at local positions in connection with said instrumentality and subjecting the individual strands or filaments so clamped in connection with said instrumentality to stretching tension to effect the winding thereof under tension on said instrumentality, retaining said tension on the individual strands of the hair band as long as the band is in engagement with said instrumentality, and following the wrapping under tension of the hair band around said curling instrumentality, applying heat to the band to set the same.

TI-IELMA I-I. ZINN. 

